Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 51 to 75 of 94

Thread: Saturday 16th Hamilton meet .

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Auckland, North Shore
    Posts
    570

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by photofans View Post
    You guys have lots of fun.if shoot on Sunday.i must go..
    James. Hows the Phottix ATLAS trigger going.
    Haven't had a chance to try it yet....been a bit too busy, haha.
    I think they'll come in very useful for something I'm possibly doing this week though. Will let you know how they go.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by randomguy View Post
    looked fun. and great shots all around.

    i would suggest.. if you wanted to do this again, perhaps think about a studio, where a 'planned' shoot would be easier.

    you can plan all you want in advance, but for a park, outdoors.. there are too many variables that can eat away at time.. rain, hail, shadows, lots of people, bees..
    Getting the best shot you can on the day with the circumstances as they fall is half the fun..
    I like being able to have an idea in my head, and aim for it.. but I always end up finding something even better once i start adjusting things to suit the situation.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kylecarter View Post
    Getting the best shot you can on the day with the circumstances as they fall is half the fun..
    I like being able to have an idea in my head, and aim for it.. but I always end up finding something even better once i start adjusting things to suit the situation.
    That's exactly how I feel . I'd like to try a bit of studio stuff but don't want it to be a 'crutch' for an inability to shoot outdoors in challenging situations .
    Imagine if someone needed pictures of someone in the gardens for an ad or something - I wouldn't want to have to tell them " I only shoot in a studio " .
    I enjoy the challenge of many variables - so that hopefully when conditions are better I can get the shot that I want .
    Occasionally I try something "really different"

    Last edited by Desmond; 18-10-2010 at 07:44 PM.
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  4. #54

    Default

    I like this type of shot a bit too and have been taking a few recently (lots of room for text, is that editorial? not sure)


    Christy by Tony and Rachel, on Flickr
    Last edited by Tony; 18-10-2010 at 08:07 PM. Reason: gah, spelling again, man

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    I like this type of shot a bit too and have been taking a few recently (lots of room for text, is that editorial? not sure)
    That looks really good .
    Kyle sent me a link describing what editorial shots are and the simplified version appears to be "the type of image you would see in a magazine but is not an ad " .....
    Still confused ? So am I
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Auckland, North Shore
    Posts
    570

    Default

    That bamboo shot is awesome Tony.

    What do you guys think about this? Possibly a love it or hate it shot?

    Laura's pose here was so amazing and dynamic. Sadly for some strange reason I didn't think to use any fill flash ... so trying to make the panda-eyes look ok via some experimental post production...


    Laura on Dragonturtle by James C C Yang, on Flickr

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jyphoto.co.nz View Post
    That bamboo shot is awesome Tony.
    What do you guys think about this? Possibly a love it or hate it shot?
    Laura's pose here was so amazing and dynamic. Sadly for some strange reason I didn't think to use any fill flash ... so trying to make the panda-eyes look ok via some experimental post production...
    Fill flash would have helped but strangely panda eyes may be fitting considering the theme of the statue [ China] .
    It's good working with Laura - no need to ask her to do something interesting
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  8. #58

    Default

    @Jack ...before the shoot...

    I was thinking about that advice today, it is a deceptively simple idea, but genius. Looking through my files I see two main problems with my shots that arnt working.

    - Problems that were completely anticipatable that I was unprepared for.
    - The second set of problems relate to being unprepared when I thought I was. I had not been specific enough in my pre analysis.

    Really valuable advice, deceptively simple sounding.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Dubai/Waikato
    Posts
    4,544

    Default

    Some very cool photo's guy, especially the bamboo shots...and the bike shots as well.

    Everyone is probably busy with holidays, but if anything is happening in January, let me know...
    Canon 5DIII | 7D | 16-35mm f2.8L II | 17-40mm f4L | 24mm f1.4L II | 50mm f1.2L | 85mm f1.2L II | 70-200mm f2.8L II | 300mm f2.8L IS II | 1.4x III | 2x III | 580EX II

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mesodan View Post
    Some very cool photo's guy, especially the bamboo shots...and the bike shots as well.

    Everyone is probably busy with holidays, but if anything is happening in January, let me know...
    Are you coming back to NZ then ? We'll definitely be organizing something else .
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  11. #61
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Timaru
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    @Jack ...before the shoot...

    I was thinking about that advice today, it is a deceptively simple idea, but genius. Looking through my files I see two main problems with my shots that arnt working.

    - Problems that were completely anticipatable that I was unprepared for.
    - The second set of problems relate to being unprepared when I thought I was. I had not been specific enough in my pre analysis.

    Really valuable advice, deceptively simple sounding.
    Tony, it's getting to the point now where if the shoot is potentially very challenging or highly conceptual I'm arranging a pre-shoot shoot to iron out issues I think I'm going to have and to find out issues I haven't thought about. I'm getting one of the models involved and a couple of assistants too. This way on the day of the proper shoot when we have hair and make-up, location and what not we hit the ground running, poses nailed, lighting sussed, everything. This will also give us more options on the day, get the shots we planned for and then play and see what we can come up with that's different but without the pressure.

    I'm not saying ^^^ that's something I'll do for the more regular shoots but if there's variables that could cause hic-ups on the day I want them sort beforehand. Obviously you have to be able to go with the flow if the shit hits the fan on the day but.........

  12. #62
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Dubai/Waikato
    Posts
    4,544

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Desmond View Post
    Are you coming back to NZ then ? We'll definitely be organizing something else .
    Thanks Desmond, in the waikato/BOP area for most of Jan, so keep me in the loop.
    Canon 5DIII | 7D | 16-35mm f2.8L II | 17-40mm f4L | 24mm f1.4L II | 50mm f1.2L | 85mm f1.2L II | 70-200mm f2.8L II | 300mm f2.8L IS II | 1.4x III | 2x III | 580EX II

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mesodan View Post
    Thanks Desmond, in the waikato/BOP area for most of Jan, so keep me in the loop.
    Cool , I was wondering about the option of a Rotorua shoot - they are setting up some dinosaur replicas at the luge !
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  14. #64

    Default

    Here is an example of one that I am disappointed with. It has potential I think but where I could improve is with being prepared by having anticipated the sunny conditions


    Sample for forum discussion by Tony and Rachel, on Flickr

    For the week leading up it had been a really mixed bag weather wise. I should totally have known there might be a bright day. I had this idea for using this setting with one of the models on that seat. I had been thinking of facing them the other way and using this great cobbled curving path in a pano format with them at the left third. I was unprepared to work with the dynamic range of the mixed lighting between open shade and direct sunlight. I have posted the cropped stitch but not the final crop, which removes that right hand side since it is too eye catching and blown out. I uploaded a 50% version on my flickr page the picture is linked too so you can zoom in and see how fantastic the light was on her face. I would really loved to have used the path though and get a nice environment shot with Christy looking all casual and model like on the bench, facing the other way.

    Anticipating these conditions would have meant several other options to solve it could have been setup beforehand. I was so frustrated with myself at the time and processing afterwards confirmed it. Anyway, its a good lesson... I know I know, you also have to be adaptable on the day, but this is different, I should have known this.

    Next time as they say.

    On a differnt topic, love how images look on black in the hellophoto forum, much nicer than flickr
    Last edited by Tony; 20-10-2010 at 10:15 PM. Reason: spelling.... again

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    I know what you mean , the morning was so nice and cloudy and then the sun comes out when we start shooting .
    I think that image could look good with and crop with the tree framing the upper right of the picture as a consolation for not being able to get the whole path in .
    Otherwise I think perhaps the solution to the problem if you wanted the path in the picture would be to bracket exposures and take a few for the path as well with the sunlight "correctly" exposed on its own - then use the dreaded photoshop to do a mild HDR image .

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    Here is an example of one that I am disappointed with. It has potential I think but where I could improve is with being prepared by having anticipated the sunny conditions
    For the week leading up it had been a really mixed bag weather wise. I should totally have known there might be a bright day. I had this idea for using this setting with one of the models on that seat. I had been thinking of facing them the other way and using this great cobbled curving path in a pano format with them at the left third. I was unprepared to work with the dynamic range of the mixed lighting between open shade and direct sunlight. I have posted the cropped stitch but not the final crop, which removes that right hand side since it is too eye catching and blown out. I uploaded a 50% version on my flickr page the picture is linked too so you can zoom in and see how fantastic the light was on her face. I would really loved to have used the path though and get a nice environment shot with Christy looking all casual and model like on the bench, facing the other way.

    Anticipating these conditions would have meant several other options to solve it could have been setup beforehand. I was so frustrated with myself at the time and processing afterwards confirmed it. Anyway, its a good lesson... I know I know, you also have to be adaptable on the day, but this is different, I should have known this.

    Next time as they say.

    On a differnt topic, love how images look on black in the hellophoto forum, much nicer than flickr
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  16. #66
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Timaru
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    The good thing though guys is that you are thinking about it and more importantly talking to each other about it. Next time try the group email/pm idea and have a chat before the shoot of ideas and problems you may or may not encounter, work together to solve these problems.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by North of Auckland View Post
    The good thing though guys is that you are thinking about it and more importantly talking to each other about it. Next time try the group email/pm idea and have a chat before the shoot of ideas and problems you may or may not encounter, work together to solve these problems.
    How do we do a group email Jack ?
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  18. #68
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Timaru
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Desmond View Post
    How do we do a group email Jack ?
    Either cc everyone in.

    Or create a private group on here.

    Or on Facebook Send message and include everones username you want involved.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by North of Auckland View Post
    Either cc everyone in.

    Or create a private group on here.

    Or on Facebook Send message and include everones username you want involved.
    The trouble with the groups here , as with the "wedding second shooters" group , is that nobody receives notifications of replies .
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  20. #70
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Timaru
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Desmond View Post
    The trouble with the groups here , as with the "wedding second shooters" group , is that nobody receives notifications of replies .
    Yeah, I agree, nothing we can about it though.

  21. #71

    Default

    Hey Desmond, yes that is a good idea. I think if I was going down the software solution route I would bracket at 1.5 stop separation and have her exposed correctly on the overexposed bracket. For the merge I think in this situation I would use a luminosity mask for the edge blend and then paint in the rest since from memory it wasn’t a mottled merge, just a straight light area and dark area. I prefer to do bracketing from a tripod too (which I didn’t take). So a bracketed pano is a fair bit of work and I think I would be tempted to try and get the exposure balanced in one shot if I could.

    I estimate the exposure difference is three stops to still look natural. I need to somehow bring down the bright area or raise the dark area. I can only think of two ways to bring down the bright area. One is to wait for different conditions. I am not keen on that because it is a bit out of my control and also I think the way she is lit is because of the current lighting. An overcast day wont get that light wall behind me reflecting into this shade to the same degree and I think the colours are also from the bright day, overcast might be a bit flat colourwise and the shadows even darker in the shade.
    The other way to bring down the background is to change it, but that cheating. So doing something the angle or focal length to get everything in shot in the same exposure range… but I really wanted that path, all of it.

    So bringing up the shade area I think has the best chance of working. The giant wall reflector could become the ambient/fill and using a decent size softbox could become the main light. I think it would still look natural but with more contrast on Christy’s face, depending on where it was placed. Because it is a pano I can light her then remove it for the other shots. Probably flag it so only a small amount of spill into the bushes behind her or move it along with each shot and light them up too so that background comes down.

    Well that’s an idea I have, without having tried it, what do you think? Is there any other ways to broadly light up the some shade at the time of capture (with the idea of having close to finished at capture, not a post thing)

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    I took some test shots inside my kitchen to do an article on my understanding of "how the brain 'sees' " and as you mention we normally think of the sun as being 2 or 3 stops brighter than shade areas - depending how deep in the shade we are . By measurement in the conditions I was in the sun area was 50 times brighter than the shade [ 5 1/2 stops ? ] so we have to remember to take into account how our brains sees when compensating so perhaps having the sun area one stop brighter may look right ? . To me photoshop is only there for situations where you absolutely cannot do something without it and that may be the case in these conditions .
    Try taking some pictures in overcast conditions - I have found colours to be much better when there is less sunlight .
    With my D40 and my new "turbo-flash" I have 10X the power of an SB800 which could add some serious light to the scene , and with a wide angle lens you could capture the entire scene and perhaps with two or three shots , one for the flash in the shade area and then one or two for the sun area , you could have the dynamic range you need .
    I enjoy challenges like this - pushing things to the limits . I think your first shot in the bamboo would be very rewarding to accomplish without having to take it to a studio


    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    Hey Desmond, yes that is a good idea. I think if I was going down the software solution route I would bracket at 1.5 stop separation and have her exposed correctly on the overexposed bracket. For the merge I think in this situation I would use a luminosity mask for the edge blend and then paint in the rest since from memory it wasn’t a mottled merge, just a straight light area and dark area. I prefer to do bracketing from a tripod too (which I didn’t take). So a bracketed pano is a fair bit of work and I think I would be tempted to try and get the exposure balanced in one shot if I could.

    I estimate the exposure difference is three stops to still look natural. I need to somehow bring down the bright area or raise the dark area. I can only think of two ways to bring down the bright area. One is to wait for different conditions. I am not keen on that because it is a bit out of my control and also I think the way she is lit is because of the current lighting. An overcast day wont get that light wall behind me reflecting into this shade to the same degree and I think the colours are also from the bright day, overcast might be a bit flat colourwise and the shadows even darker in the shade.
    The other way to bring down the background is to change it, but that cheating. So doing something the angle or focal length to get everything in shot in the same exposure range… but I really wanted that path, all of it.

    So bringing up the shade area I think has the best chance of working. The giant wall reflector could become the ambient/fill and using a decent size softbox could become the main light. I think it would still look natural but with more contrast on Christy’s face, depending on where it was placed. Because it is a pano I can light her then remove it for the other shots. Probably flag it so only a small amount of spill into the bushes behind her or move it along with each shot and light them up too so that background comes down.

    Well that’s an idea I have, without having tried it, what do you think? Is there any other ways to broadly light up the some shade at the time of capture (with the idea of having close to finished at capture, not a post thing)
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  23. #73

    Default

    I get the three stops I mention from shutter speeds (I use manual mode, yeah, I just double checked 3 stops).

    "Try taking some pictures in overcast conditions " er yeah, I will give that a go

    Just like overcast can be nicer than direct sun, open shade can be nicer than overcast... its an opinion anyway. I know what you are saying about the contrast/coulour relationship, I was talking more about quality of light/colour in this shot being nice. It is easy to see when you have a place you shoot regularly under different lighting conditions how much quality of light improves a picture, but assuming you know that.

    I am pretty sure I have enough power for three stops, it is the quality of the light I am interested in, its just my hangup I guess, I am into smooth tones dominating in the midtone range, not really into empty black or harse contrast transitions. I like the subject to be brightest then falling off in the environment. Same for focal lenths less than mmm say 50-85mm. It wont give me the qualities I am after for resolution, apparent DOF, field of view, and aparent background, again though, its a style thing. I am not keen on the way shorter focal lengths change the face portions on someone like Christy and what it does to the environent focally.

    If you were going down the avenue you mentioned with big lights to light up the shade area, how would you modify the light. Would shoot it through a big sheet perhaps, to get that softer main? What is the advantage of your "turbo flash" over using stobes, is it cheaper perhaps?

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    5,086

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    If you were going down the avenue you mentioned with big lights to light up the shade area, how would you modify the light. Would shoot it through a big sheet perhaps, to get that softer main? What is the advantage of your "turbo flash" over using stobes, is it cheaper perhaps?
    Basically the turbo-flash gives me more power so I could use it to perhaps bounce light or diffuse it for better quality light with acceptable output taking the power loss caused by diffusion into account . It is basically an older strobe with bigger "batteries" ie: a larger capacitor . The 1/500th sync speed of a D40 basically doubles my normal flash power anyway in bright conditions .
    You could also 'turbo ' your manual flash by adding a capacitor .
    Shooting with Nikon D40 , D50 , 2 X D90 , 2X SB800 2 X SB24 1 X SB400 . Tarmon 17-50 F2.8 , Tamron 28-75 F2.8 Nikon 35mm F1.8 50mm F1.8 , 85mm F1.8 , 18-200VR , 18-105 VR , 70-200VR , Fuji F31fd .
    http://desmond-downs.blogspot.co.nz/...-depth-of.html

  25. #75

    Default

    Hey Desmond,

    So with the turbo flash thing, I am still unsure why you would use it over a strobe (not a speedlite). I am guessing it is cheaper and perhaps interesting for you to investigate (did I mention I worked as en electronics designer for about 10 years, I really do understand the enquiring mind, not a critism?) but in terms of power output I would have thought a strobe was up there and a bit easiar to use (mounting attachments, cycling etc)?

    So for modifying I am interested in getting a big source, for soft wrapping, but also I think to spill into the bushes at say a stop inder and to completely fall off by the time it hits the path... gee i want it all aye

    Here is a side question too. So with photography, your really into the "how its done" side, is there also a bit of the "beautiful images" side that grabs you too? Nothing wrong with either, just asking becasue it is two different conversations.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •